1/200, but it doesn’t matter: There is no natural light in that scene, so the only light is the flash. Since I’m holding onto the flower with my left hand, and resting the lens on that same hand, the only motion I have to
It’s kind of done involving 2 sets of multiple exposures. first set is a HDR bracket taken either early evening or early morning (essentially when the light is best) this can be low ISO.. & The 2nd set is a massive series of images
They’re seriously the best tips you can get, short of custom molds. I thought the Westone 3 sounded like crap for years, but using the Comply Foam I finally hear what everyone likes about it.
This is a 24 image series; 8 HDR images comprised of 3 individual images. HDR sets made up of 4″, 10″ and 30″ exposures. Shot on a Fuji Finepix S3Pro with a Nikon 20mm f/3.5 set to f/16. Post process HDR done in Photomatix
I can’t say how OP did it as there are several ways, but the easiest I’ve found is averaging the exposures sequentially, e.g. the first and second exposure averaged together, then the result averaged with the third, then the result averaged with the fourth,
And here I was thinking someone should make a bot to do this, link correction bot, you’re awesome! Now be a good chap and cross post those for me.
Generally a Exposure calculator app with other ND filters, but I’ve done enough of these 10 minutes that I can remember that I need a proper exposure at 1/100th to translate to a properly exposed image with the 16 stop.
I was only getting driven through by my dad to get from Manchester to Huddersfield, just started university, however over the Christmas holidays I fully intend to go on some walks and visit a few of the villages, looked idyllic as we went past.
It looks so peaceful there, but those surge channels scare the shit out of me when I see them! I hopped over a couple (smaller ones) on the West Coast Trail last summer and was like *pleasedontdiepleasedontdiepleasedontdie* Some of the larger ones I’d see
EXIF data says an exposure time of 30 seconds at a focal length of 18mm on a fullframe body (D800E). A decent rule of thumb for not getting star trails is to divide 600 (I’ve heard 500, as well) by your focal length and
Combination I believe. Long exposures stacked. Although, I haven’t really looked into this style so take my comment with a grain of salt.
Yes, they sometimes are, and as somniopus said, they can sometimes be very faint. These were not even close to the brightest ones I’ve seen, mostly due to the light pollution from the city. But if you go further north, and away from any
it looks like archimantis latistyla to me, but its hard to tell for sure without seeing the whole body. Very pretty shot.
This image was with an old Olympus e-410 that I had purchased used and then converted it to IR after getting a new camera.
Most likely a manfroto Magic arm great for affixing optical devices http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=553830&gclid=Cj0KEQiA1NWnBRDchObfnYrbo78BEiQA-2jqBZ0w4xYJYwXs98efdODPNdNXsbHoYRSdoUpsltkflLUaAq408P8HAQ&Q=&is=REG&A=details Edit for spelling and link!
Sorry been on mobile all day and couldn’t look this up: D800 with new toy: [this Tokina 16-35](http://www.kenrockwell.com/tokina/16-28mm.htm). Controls: 16mm and ISO 12800 and 30 seconds and f/4.5 and “Hold still, honey”.
Its actually a composite of two photos, the lightning strike in the middle and the one to the right. Both were taken with a 7d and a Tonika 11-16mm The settings for both were 11mm ISO 800 f 7 for 1 second. I then
Used an old Contax IIIa Rangefinder camera that used to by grandpas. It has a nice Zeiss Sonnar 50mm 1.5 lens. No tripod. I just rested the camera on bench there and held the button down for X seconds based on a handheld spot
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This is rad. I did a whole series of 1-30 second exposures with a 2 second timer and my tripod duct taped to the middle back seat in my old Mazda 3 hatchback but the high angle out of the convertible is clutch. If
It’s an Olympus E-P1 with a Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 lens. It’s been converted to full-spectrum by [LifePixel](http://www.lifepixel.com/shop/full-spectrum-camera-conversion/olympus-mirrorless-full-spectrum-conversion) so it has no built-in filter at all, just a piece of glass (Quartz? No idea really.) The filter I’m holding is some cheap Chinese IR-Pass filter,
Manual lens, one handed shot other was holding flash. Stopped down to f/8. Guesswork. I hear about this thing called stacking, going to give it a try.
It’s odd. I see so many things on this site showing the beautiful side of Iran, the anecdotal stories of both Iranians and Israelis saying they don’t hate each other, the anecdotal stories of Iranians saying that Iranians don’t hate Americans in general, once
Thanks. Also if you don’t have a good macro lens I have heard of people holding their lenses backwards. Might be tricky. But possible. I also have an extension set I got off the eBay for very cheap. As these don’t contain glass, you